The North Cornwall coast is a place close to my heart. My dad’s family have been regulars of one particular beach for over 80 years. So it takes a lot to convince them to go anywhere else – even if it is less than 40 miles down the same stretch of coast.
But by tacking on three extra nights to a holiday that we had already planned, I managed to convince them that Three Mile Beach was definitely a place worth visiting. I had been one of the first to experience the luxury self-catering resort when it opened in the summer of 2021 and, as with so many things in the world of travel at that time, the pandemic had left a mark.
© Getty ImagesSo I was keen to return to see if the self-catering with a hotel-style twist was as wonderful as I remembered, or whether I had just been so grateful to be out again that my break-starved mind had overexaggerated the experience.
The location is superb
My favourite thing about Gwithian, where Three Mile Beach is set, is that it’s close enough to see St Ives shimmering across the water (a 25-minute drive), but not close enough to suffer from the crowds the stylish Cornish town attracts.
The beach is a major draw. As the name would suggest, at low tide, the golden sands of the beach stretch for miles, lapped by the gloriously tumultuous Atlantic Ocean as it sweeps in through St Ives Bay, and backed by the dramatic granite cliffs of the coast path.
When I first visited, I had neglected to note the accessibility of the beach (I was young, able and childless), but with a couple of young children and parents with joint replacements now in tow, I had a new appreciation for the difficulties caused by the steps being blocked off at high tide – a consideration for anyone less able to navigate tricky terrain.
Yet as the tide recedes, it’s well worth the visit as rock pools and caves are exposed – the perfect playspace for children. As we strolled along the sand to sunny skies and a refreshing breeze, I was shocked to find that my usually critical mother was impressed. She likes what she likes and is a creature of holiday habit, yet her readiness to fall in love with Gwithian and Three Mile Beach was surprising.
What are the beach houses like?
Mum had already been won over by the accommodation as we’d checked in to Yellow Submarine, our three-bed beach house, earlier that day. The houses were exactly as I remembered, showing an impressive amount of upkeep over the five years since my first visit.
© ELLIOTT WHITEIn the hospitality industry, it’s not unusual for the initial concept to be a winner – in this case bright, airy spaces with an elevated beach-chic vibe – only for things to fall into a state of disrepair as time passes. I should have known better; Three Mile Beach is owned by Craig Burkinshaw, founder of Audley Travel, and his partner, Joanne Le Bon, a pair that understand the need to maintain reputation through consistent quality.
Rooms were immaculately clean, while white shiplap walls and marble surfaces were peppered with pops of colour. The huge variety of kitchenware remained, as did the collection of Yeti wine thermos mugs; a revelation that inspired our own collection at home.
The toy chest and mezzanines even allowed me enough time to read a few pages of my book in the glorious Fatboy hammock before swapping out with my husband so that he could enjoy the Swedish sauna and plunging wooden barrel hot tub. When it came time to explore the beach, we were delighted to find a beach trolley at our disposal as well as beach toys, spades, towels and even a shade.
Working up an appetite
On my first visit, we’d enjoyed making our own pizzas (for five doughs: £75 per night), so we opted to do it again, and although pricey, it was even more rewarding rolling out the dough and peppering it with tasty, fresh ingredients with children. They loved watching it go into the pizza oven for a few minutes before eagerly wolfing down the results.
What has changed?
Back in 2021, there wasn’t much else by way of a food offering onsite. Now, though, the food truck has been replaced by Chomp and it has to be one of the best meals I’ve had in a while. It’s exactly the style and environment that I personally enjoy (although it might not be for everyone or those looking for a more refined experience). The vibe is relaxed – holiday mode is definitely engaged here, although not by the staff who were fast, friendly and welcoming.
© stuart elkinsBy continuation, the menu is mostly sharing-style and differs slightly depending on the night. Highlights from the menu we tried (Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday) were the chuck burger (so good I think I could have eaten two despite their generous size), pulled pork tacos and charred hispi chicken salad. The cocktails only improved the mood further.
© stuart elkinsAnother new addition is the treatment space that can be found at the back of the office. Yes, you have to go through staff sitting at their desk, going about their business, but they have managed to create a small sanctuary just behind where the lovely Lily eased out the tension in my back from lugging a toddler on and off the beach all day.
© stuart elkinsHow to book it: Three nights in a two-bedroom beach shack at Three Mile Beach cost from £619 including welcome hamper.
Penny was a guest of Three Mile Beach. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
