TikTok doesn’t sound like the most obvious destination to pick up tips for grey, mature hair, but the Gen Z-loved platform might just have hit upon a surprising hit with its latest trend: ‘dirty conditioning’. It’s a trending technique that flips your wash day regime on its head, and experts say it may reap rewards for older women.
So, what is dirty conditioning? In essence, it involves applying conditioner to dry or damp, unwashed hair before you shampoo. ‘This method creates a protective barrier that shields hair from the harsh, stripping effects of shampoo,’ explains Andrew John, salon manager at Percy & Reed.
To do it, he advises wetting hair thoroughly then applying conditioner from roots through to the ends. ‘Gently but thoroughly massage from the roots and move the product down the mid length to ends,’ he says. ‘If you have a scalp massager, this is a great tool to use. You can rinse straight away or leave up to five mins for an intense treatment.’
This isn’t a method to be confused with co-washing, a one-step method which uses conditioner to clean and condition hair in one, and generally suits curly and coily textures. Instead, dirty conditioning involves shampooing the conditioner out, and usually conditioning again, depending on your hair’s needs. Think of it as a cheaper alternative to dedicated pre-wash treatments, using a product you already have in your shower caddy.
How does dirty conditioning help grey hair?
Grey hair is often coarser, and so benefits from the moisture ‘sandwich’ created by using conditioner as an extra pre-shampoo treatment, says Andrew. ‘As our hair matures, it becomes drier and the greys can change the texture of the hair, making it harder to manage,’ says Andrew. ‘By dirty conditioning, the hair will become softer and more manageable, and the boost in hydration will make grey hair pop with shine.’
After shampooing, lavish on more love. ‘Condition again, or finish with a conditioning styler,’ adds Andrew. Don’t rely on the pre-conditioner application to deliver enough moisture. ‘Dry, mature grey hair has a rougher cuticle and produces less natural oil, so ending your shower with shampoo can leave it stripped, brittle and prone to frizziness. If you have dry coarse, mature, or curly hair, the best shampoo and conditioner needs to be hydrating. Percy & Reed’s Wonder Shampoo & Conditioner is fantastic.’
Is there any hair type that doesn’t suit dirty conditioning?
According to Andrew, ‘it works especially great on dry, coarse, curly, and coily hair types’, which explains why dry, wiry grey hair can thrive with that double dose of condition. However, ‘for thinning hair, I would not recommend dirty conditioning’, he says.
Instead, the focus here should be on products targeted to breakage and shedding. ‘The hair is weaker and more fragile, therefore needs a prescription of products to help reduce thinning,’ he says. Your hair’s key needs should always come first, so targeted products like scalp drop or growth serums take priority over dirty conditioning.
